Upon entering the church Chuchulaya, inevitably gaze is directed to the statue of the Virgin, that while religiously represents the Nativity, in the tradition of the population has been dubbed Chuchulaya Virgen de la Estrella. This is because the light that people claim that is emanating from the center of the front: yes, only when a person is devout.
Strangely, this September 8, 2010 all and sundry, they could feel the glow, perhaps because this day is carried out by the party at the strangers from the city of La Paz, known as the novenantes, for nine days during the colonial period the church was assigned to the celebrations of the Virgin Mary grateful for the blessings received, reaffirming their devotion through pilgrimage and performing dances in his honor.
Something striking is the absence of the locals in celebration. Gerardo Navia, Chuchulaya born but based in the seat of government, recalls "that has always been, that the people have never participated in the festival is clearly to outsiders, the people have their party on July 16 in honor Virgen del Carmen. " It is said that this reflects the fact that the image is miraculous with outsiders and not with the locals.
While listening to the noon mass, when the father says: "I think in Jesus Christ his only son, knowing glances between the present cross. It happens that on the altar, six children Jesus, the miner, the driver, the doctor, the WACA, the llama and the most singular of all, the devil child. In devotion to the latter, because children are also considered miraculous, was established fraternity Chuchulaya Imps Reds.
After the Mass, and as is customary at religious festivals in rural areas, is removed from the church's patron Chuchulaya to go with her the four corners around the square. Front and in alignment, six women carry in arms image paths of the Child. In
nineteenth century, Chuchulaya was a trade that supplied cane to the plateau. "They had mules Tipuani products, Guanay and Mapiri, quinoa and return to Sorata. Around the square you can see the balconies of colonial type, in that time, were used to observe the running of horses and fighting bulls, says Navia.
Larecaja belongs to the province's department of La Paz, with a height of 2,828 meters above sea level, the village is blessed by a warm climate. Stresses in the breathtaking landscape ceibo of the main square, which, according to Gerardo Navia has a width that can cover only if seven men clinging embrace hands. At
Chuchulaya Ancoraimes trapped by the look of the territory to which you descend down a path of seemingly endless curves. In this holiday has scheduled a meeting with all the living forces of place, because we have to address a special topic.
sociologist Silvia Rivera, head of the working group The Collective, explains the reasons for the visit: to know a painting of the Virgin of Chuchulaya, which could be included in an art show out of Bolivia. If the people agree, one could think of restoring the work. Approved
inspection, the caravan returned to the church. Crossing a fragile wooden door arrives to the sacristy, which is actually a room full of objects and relics in poor condition, covered in dust by the lack of glass in the windows. There, between objects lying on the floor, is the reason for trip to The Collective.
Impatience is huge, but we must wait for the custodian of that package wrapped in a plastic cover. Comes with a frown, probably because he is forced to leave the party a moment that betrays the mixture on your head. Without saying a word, roll up on his shoulder, out of the room humid and dusty, dropping heavily onto the floor before the altar. All this makes the entourage launch sighs and moves to grab her head as gesture of dismay at such carelessness.
Helena Brown, the restoration specialist who has arrived from Colombia in the early hours of that day, takes the reins. After releasing the cloth of his shirt, plastic, roll it with the utmost delicacy to completely extended. In the process, as seen in slow motion appear one by one the 10 miracles that inspired the author (anonymous) to paint this work of art. These are painted on the bottom and two sides of the figure of the Virgin.
Most shows miracles of healing, not for nothing that the etymology of Chuchulaya aymara is Chujchu, which means malaria and laya, caste or place. Manuscripts eighteenth century refer to a sick people, as shown in his study of the site Behoteguy Gabriela (2010).
The Blessed Virgin Mary painting. of the Nativity and the Miraculous Ymagen of Chuchulaya, with a dimension of 283 cm x 207 cm and dated 1732, reveals at this time, in the eyes of all present, that its essence, as is the settled Behoteguy, va beyond artistic or religious value: its main value is cultural, as it represents the historical identity of the people of Chuchulaya, pick your places, landscapes, and events that marked their neighbors. We know of the existence of an earlier church, on transfer from Rosasani (old town) to Rosaspata (actual people), plus of the struggle between English and indigenous tenure of the Miraculous Medal.
The picture, despite what was said, over the years suffered imprisonment and neglect because of an attempted robbery by the year 1997 which ended a string of robberies that stripped the temple paintings, precious jewels and ornaments .
is true that this time the robbery was foiled, it is said that when the thieves tried to take pictures of the church and were cutting the canvas of the Virgin of Chuchulaya of its frame, the table fell with such noise that shook the church. The villagers woke up, ran to his temple and frightened the robbers. This was
believes in the people as another miracle of the image would not be stolen, as the study of Behoteguy.
During Holy Week of 2009, Gabriela Behoteguy knew the box while conducting fieldwork for her thesis in anthropology. On that occasion he met an old man, Porfirio Froilan Pinto, who in addition to telling about Mary, and unlike most people here, he recalled the existence of the painting. Thanks to that headed the efforts for restoration, including it in the international art project called Top Potosí.
Another miracle and a long trip
Helena observes all the details of the battered box, make notes on which to report the losses caused by weather and how he was saved, climatic conditions and feces of mice clearly accumulated.
The locals heard when the expert tells them that if the canvas is in these conditions is virtually impossible to do anything to save him.
A committee of the Ministry of Culture and the English government representatives arrive in December 2010 to collect art work and undertake the restoration work.
Shining, the table went to Madrid (Museo Reina Sofía) and Berlin (Haus der Kulturen der Welt), which was exhibited in the mega-exhibition that confronts Bolivian colonial art contemporary expressions of the world, to challenge colonial relations.
Since February, Chuchulaya history can be read through the box at the Museum of Ethnography and Folklore (MUSEF) from La Paz, where exposure by signing Principle Potosí.
However, the time that everyone involved in this journey when the Virgin is expected to return to their place of origin and miracles. This writer hopes to be there for the moment of reunion.
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